Rear end question

[ahamar69]

Hello. I have a 77 volare, with 318, 904 and very small rear end. I thought at one time i heard that a
jeep cherokee rear end would fit, does anyone know if this is correct? I found a spicer 35 with 4:56 gears out of a 89 cherokee. Would this be a good fit? what would be needed to swap? Thanks for any help.

[1980volare]

you have a 7.25 rear, your probaly after the 8.25. dont know of a jeep rear that will bolt in, but some wranglers and cherrokees used the 8.25 so the gears and center sections can be used. id look for a diplomat/grandfury/ fith ave and steal the 8.25 rear that might be under it, and you will have to shorten the driveshaft for the new rear.

[ahamar69]

Thanks for the info. I have a junk car 77 lebaron it looks like it has a 8.25. Is a spicer 35 a 8.25?
would be nice. They want 350 for the rear end. Well thanks.

[270SE]

Thanks for the info. I have a junk car 77 lebaron it looks like it has a 8.25. Is a spicer 35 a 8.25?
would be nice. They want 350 for the rear end. Well thanks.
Spicer 35 and 8.25 are different. '77 LeBaron is a bolt-in as-is. Should be 2.76 gears if 318, maybe 2.45 or 3.2. Could be 2.45 or 3.2 if a 360 or 3.2 if it's a six.

The center section is an integrated unit, you could still swap the gears and sure-grip unit from a Jeep or truck, but not the center section. (doesn't matter anyway)

For the Jeep rear you'd need to probably move perches, maybe narrow the housing/axle, and possibly adjust pinion angle.

[1980volare]

Thanks for the info. I have a junk car 77 lebaron it looks like it has a 8.25. Is a spicer 35 a 8.25?
would be nice. They want 350 for the rear end. Well thanks.

350 seems a little high imo.

you could pick up a complete 8.75 out of a 66-70 b body and it practically bolts in. for that price and be a little better off.

[270SE]

350 seems a little high imo.

you could pick up a complete 8.75 out of a 66-70 b body and it practically bolts in. for that price and be a little better off.
Just depends on what you want to do, the 8.25" would be easier/cheaper to get a driveshaft set for and would be a 100% bolt in. Sure-grips are cheaper for them too. You could get the driveshaft done under $150 for the 8.25", or if the LeBaron has a 727 (A36 code on fender tag, different pan than your 904-based trans) you might be able to use the LeBaron's.

You might be able to get an 8.25" cheaper. The 8.25" has the benefit of not costing as much all said and done, so when you outgrow it, you can easily sell it or save it for another project and upgrade without worrying. The 8-3/4" isn't as cheap all said and told.

[bill55az]

the 8 3/4 axle can only be had cheap if you buy it from someone who doesn't know what it is, or at a selfpull junkyard if you get there the day it is put in the yard and are first to get to it.
I always carry the needed tools for the rare event that an 8 3/4 axle shows up. The center sections are easily pulled and are not that rare, as they were used in a lot of Mopar cars and trucks, it is the right size housing that is hard to find. Those from early B cars are almost a direct bolt-in for FMJ cars.
For occasional racing, an 8.25 will do, allmost any of the 3 versions of 8 3/4 would be better if you race a lot.

as for jeep axles, some of the newer jeep models are using the 8.25 and are probably close in overall dimensions, but will need spring pads moved....plus you can get a 3.7 ratio.

[kent]

Bill how new a Jeep are we talking and what model?

[bill55az]

Bill how new a Jeep are we talking and what model?

The Liberty, IIRC....
What I did was make a data base starting with a list of mopar axles you can find on line....and adding some Jeep info to it.
but that is on my home computer in Utah. I won't be back there til mid May.
I posted it on another forum somewhere, if I can remember where, I will let you know.

You can't use wheel track for info, different years use different back space. The dakota and FMJ have the same track, but backspace for dakota is about 6" while FMJ is typically 4.25".....so dakota axles are 3.5" wider.

[kent]

Thanks Bill, Yeah I have a junk 99 Dakota with a 8.25 in it that's a tad bit too wide. Going to oust the 7.25 out of the Runner this summer when I find a willing transplant. I think anyway:D

[bill55az]

Thanks Bill, Yeah I have a junk 99 Dakota with a 8.25 in it that's a tad bit too wide. Going to oust the 7.25 out of the Runner this summer when I find a willing transplant. I think anyway:D
The 97 and newer dakotas have unequal length axle shafts.
Also, somewhere in there, around 2000 IIRC, they changed number of splines on the axle shafts to make the 8.25 stronger. An internet search should enlighten you....
The non-center pumpkin isn't that big a deal if you were using the 99 dak axle under a 96 or older dakota, but under an FMJ? I don't know....
IF you have a differential shop doing the work, they would probably just use the gears from the 99, and nothing else. Depending on what they charge to take apart the 99 axle, might be better to buy new gears.

[270SE]

Or from somebody who knows the one they have is worthless. B body 8.75s are common as hen's feet.

The 8.25s spline change was '96 or '97. The width should be fine but the penches are 1.46" narrower.

The reason why $350 for a good FMJ 8.25 isn't bad is cause if you take it complete you can install it complete without a ton of additional work or parts. ($$$ that is) An 8.75 is a decent rear to an extent. If you get one cheap, they're worthwhile.

[bill55az]

Or from somebody who knows the one they have is worthless. B body 8.75s are common as hen's feet.

The 8.25s spline change was '96 or '97. The width should be fine but the penches are 1.46" narrower.

The reason why $350 for a good FMJ 8.25 isn't bad is cause if you take it complete you can install it complete without a ton of additional work or parts. ($$$ that is) An 8.75 is a decent rear to an extent. If you get one cheap, they're worthwhile.

common price for 8.25 in AZ yards, self pull, is $150 or less, drum to drum...I only pull the ones with 2.9 or 3.2 gears, unless it has SG then I take any ratio.
I did the complete axle swap on my 79 wagon, wasn't too bad. IT was a 2.9 cop car axle, big brakes, suregrip. Did the ISO elimination, 1.0" rear sway bar, early B shocks, dakota springs, etc. at the same time.
The price is the same for 8 3/4, but again, the preferred early B housing is very rare. The pumpkin alone is typically $75 or less....
The southwest climate is heaven for junkyard scroungers like me.....

[kent]

Well that's a lot of useful information fellas. Thanks guys. Those 8.75 and 8.25 use to be a dime a dozen up here, now they're like hens teeth.

[bill55az]

of the FMJ cars I see in the junkyards lately, nearly all are late M body cars and have the 7 1/4.
But if your car is just going to be just a driver, and it has the /6 or 2bbl 318, the 7 1/4 will serve. I would put some 2.9 or 3.2 gears in, tho. 2.7 or smaller is OK on the hiways but a bit doggy in town.

[270SE]

of the FMJ cars I see in the junkyards lately, nearly all are late M body cars and have the 7 1/4.
But if your car is just going to be just a driver, and it has the /6 or 2bbl 318, the 7 1/4 will serve. I would put some 2.9 or 3.2 gears in, tho. 2.7 or smaller is OK on the hiways but a bit doggy in town.
Hmm. Mine'll peel a wheel in town and hang with a big block launching. Maybe ours are just different? :wink:

2.7-down is good for a car that sees a lot of highway for mpg and low RPM operation or with short tires. 2.9/3.2s are good for a car that sees less highway usage.

[bill55az]

Hmm. Mine'll peel a wheel in town and hang with a big block launching. Maybe ours are just different? :wink:

2.7-down is good for a car that sees a lot of highway for mpg and low RPM operation or with short tires. 2.9/3.2s are good for a car that sees less highway usage.
The old chick magnet, 79 wagon, 318-4, came with a 2.45 ratio. I put on a 2.9 and it was a lot more fun to drive...

[White Aspen R/T]

You guys are having too much fun...so I am not going to touch it....I just hope the rear can handle the horses I will be giving it soon....:rubber:

[270SE]

My car has a mod or two. The 2.45 gears keep take-offs from going sideways too often and keep the mpgs up. But the motor has also been set up to like them as much as a stock motor just with an extra hundred or two, maybe 3 hp.

[270SE]

My car has a mod or two. The 2.45 gears keep take-offs from going sideways too often and keep the mpgs up. But the motor has also been set up to like them as much as a stock motor just with an extra hundred or two, maybe 3 hp.

Don't see why the 8.25 wouldn't take a decent motor if it's in good shape with a limited slip.

[77RTNJ]

I picked up a 8.25 for $225 with Suregrip from a cop car. Has the 11inch brake setup, no drums though. Problem is it has a 2.2 gear. I wanted to swap to higher gears but I need a different carrier. the 2.2 carrier will not accept higher gears, which I did not know when I bought it. I will be looking for a 96 or back suregrip dakota to pull the carrier from, hopefully with 3.21 gears or at worst 2.9 gears.

96 is the cutoff for the spline change.

Kevin

[270SE]

My large brakes came off my 7.25. You can mod the carrier for higher gears or you can run 2.45s which are friendlier than 2.2s, I ran them behind a mostly stock 318 too.

[77RTNJ]

From what i understand there is no way to modify the 2.2 or 2.45 carrier. You have to change out the carrier for one that has 2.56 or higher gears. that is why I will look for a 96 or older at a U-pull it.

Kevin

[270SE]

I've heard of shimming one set and shaving the other to swap gears between cases.

[77RTNJ]

I heard that is what you need to do. I have never rebuilt a rear before, so for me I would be better finding a rear from a dakota or ram with the 8.25 with the gears and sure-grip and swap em. plus no one makes the shim, you would have to have one made and find longer bolts. and I heard the bolts are opposite thread too.

Kevin

[bill55az]

From what i understand there is no way to modify the 2.2 or 2.45 carrier. You have to change out the carrier for one that has 2.56 or higher gears. that is why I will look for a 96 or older at a U-pull it.

Kevin
2.76 or larger gets the larger carrier.....never heard of 2.56, or did you make a typo?
if taking parts from another 8.25, take the carrier as well. It isn't easy to remove gears from a carrier at the junkyard.
Are you sure the cop car axle you bought has 2.2 gears? Usually the cop car axles are 2.9 suregrip.

[270SE]

2.76 or larger gets the larger carrier.....never heard of 2.56, or did you make a typo?
if taking parts from another 8.25, take the carrier as well. It isn't easy to remove gears from a carrier at the junkyard.
Are you sure the cop car axle you bought has 2.2 gears? Usually the cop car axles are 2.9 suregrip.
2.56 is an aftermarket. I think the split is 2.68, but I don't think they make one.

[77RTNJ]

no it is definitely a 2.2, has the tag on it. Was from a diplomat police car. one of the sites put the split numbers of 2.45 or lower and 2.56 and higher for carrier compatability. Don't know if it was a oem ratio or not.

Keivn

[270SE]

no it is definitely a 2.2, has the tag on it. Was from a diplomat police car. one of the sites put the split numbers of 2.45 or lower and 2.56 and higher for carrier compatability. Don't know if it was a oem ratio or not.

Keivn
2.45 and 2.76(or 2.71) were the OEM split. There were 1 or 2 aftermarkets between them.