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Thread: a904 pan finds

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    Aspen and Volare Senior Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    a904 pan finds

    Two things in the pan that I don't like to see...

    First is a very dark brown grit that crumbles under pressure. If you put it all together it would probably be the diameter and thickness of a dime. This could be some kind of seal or part of the old reverse switch, or it could be friction. Anyone have a thought?

    Then there is a chunk of aluminum from the case. There is one face of it that has the same texture as the inside of the case, and the other three sides are broken. I can't see where it came from. It's a bit heavy to be casting flash.

    At no point did I hear any alarming sounds from the unit, nor did I have slippage or other strange behaviour. I openned it becuase it was time to do the filter, and it's been leaking badly from the shifter shaft.

    Pictures on the way...

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    Aspen and Volare Senior Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    Here's the pics if they will link...

    Some of that grit may be dirt that got in there during the disassembly, but some of it seems to be a hard slightly porous material about 1/32 inch thick with flat faces.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77rr2x4s's Avatar
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    I`m not a trans guy but it doesn`t look good to me when you see stuff like that in the pan.

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    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    I've seen a lot worse in trans pans (overhauled a couple hundred auto trans at least) but anything more than minor black residue (clutch material) is not a good sign. However,,,,,,since it seemed to work fine and not make oise, I'd change the fluid and filter and see how it goes.
    1979 Aspen Sunrise 500". Bought in 1987 with 72,000 miles and a mighty E24 California emission 90hp leaning tower of power/4-speed
    1996 Dakota with a torque monster (not) 3.9L V-6 and automatic owned since 1998. Now demoted to winter duty
    2008 Ford Mustang V6, the new summer daily driver

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    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77rr2x4s's Avatar
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    If it is a numbers matching trans and you are concerned with that then maybe it would be best to check it out. If that doesn`t matter then for me personally I would run it as is. I`m sure it will let you know if anything important is damaged.

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    Aspen and Volare Senior Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    It's a toy car anyway, so if it were to blow up the worst part would be the tow bill.

    I forgot to mention I found one of the valve body screws loose in the pan *again* like last time I openned it 25k ago. Now I have to track down the screw pattern again to see where it belongs. (It's about 3/8" shorter than the rest of them.)

    If it blows, then I'll either rebuild it or swap in another, but it has lived a lot longer than I expected already so whatever it does will be what it does.

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    Aspen and Volare Senior Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    Found the spot where that aluminum chunk came from, no worries there.

    The special tool to extract the seal didn't work. It wouldn't bite hard enough to pull the seal out of the bore. So I pulled the valve body.

    I might be in a bit of trouble with it now. The detent went sproing when I pulled the body out of the car. I didn't keep the valve body flat while I was wrestling to get that ball back in there and I think I let the main valve piston come too far out of the bore. With it back in the car and everything looking right the shift selector doesn't move freely. It will go from P to D, but no farther.

    Someone who knows about deeper trans work want to confirm the bad news for me?

    The other bad news is with the valve body out of the way I don't like the look of the bands. I wouldn't really know since I've not rebuilt one before, but there didn't seem to be much friction between the metal part of the band and the drum. I think this unit doesn't have so many miles left in it before a rebuild.

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    Aspen and Volare Senior Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    After cleaning up and eating I spent some time thinking about it and I think I have the parking pawl installed upside down. It looked a little crowded up in there, and it was easier to put together than take apart. I have the pawl on top of the sector with the e-clip on the bottom, and I think it was with the e-clip on top. Now time to search for pictures while I wait for the rebuild manual to arrive.
    Last edited by doublechaz; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:57 PM.

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    Aspen and Volare Senior Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    Videos and pics online show that I have the pawl in right side up, and that the main valve can come that far out of the bore. So unless tipping the valve body with the cover on is a problem I think I just don't have the pawl poked in there correctly.

    It's pretty hard to get out there after work as it's already dark and cold by then. We'll see as soon as I get around to it.
    Last edited by doublechaz; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:57 PM.

  10. #10
    Aspen and Volare Senior Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    Finally got back to it. Certainly part of it was the parking pawl not being poked back in there with things lined up. This time I pulled the drive shaft out so I could rotate the output shaft and it went right in.

    While I had it apart I pulled the valve body again and verified that the manual valve moves freely. It was fine. Got everything back together and it had the same binding problem.

    Turned out to be the neutral/backup switch was locking on the sector. I'd say I must have bent the sector while I was wrestling with getting the detent back in. Good sized flat blade and it's back down where it needs to be. Now it's all back together and acts smooth.

    Still no test drive. Seems like sitting for so long the battery has dropped out, or else the suspect 41 year old starter has finally tightened up. Picked up a charger since I can't get a car around close enough with it parked where it is. Anyway, it better not be a weak connection at that neutral start switch.

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