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Thread: a904 pan finds

  1. #11
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77rr2x4s's Avatar
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    glad you got it figured out

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    White Aspen R/T (11-27-2017)

  3. #12
    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    The problem turned out to be complicated.

    When I was pulling the exhaust out to make room I was still thinking of just pulling the pan and such so I failed to disconnect the battery. I bumped the exhaust against the big lug on the starter. Seems that backfed through the wideband O2 sensor wire and blew up some stuff.

    I replaced a blown fusible link. Still wasn't working right. While experimenting with checking voltages at various fuse locations I found that I had things powered on with the key off, and things not powered on in ACC and run. While I was sitting there wondering WTF I noticed a small amount of smoke coming out of the steering column.

    Umm, pretty much the only correct amount of smoke from the steering column is zero smoke.

    Next was to pull the battery again while I wait for an ignition switch swap.

    Then the connector shell on the harness side for the ignition switch broke up, so I searched much of the state for a similar connector. Now I'm waiting for crimp terminals and an extraction tool to show up so I can rebuild that part of the harness.

    Seems more and more like time for a Painless harness.
    Last edited by doublechaz; 12-04-2017 at 09:39 PM.

  4. #13
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 76sassygrassVolare's Avatar
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    ugh, what an unfortunate series of events

  5. #14
    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    There's a reason all the instructions start out with 'disconnect the negative battery lead'. You never know what you are going to get into that should have been unrelated to your task.

    Once the shipping people finally get their crap together I'll get it back together.

  6. #15
    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    Finally all the various parts arrived and time/daylight worked out to put everything back together. That was mainly electrical repair stuff that prevented me from starting and driving.

    The transmission is much better now than it was before. That is certainly becuase I was forced to adjust the throttle kickdown linkage that has been wrong since forever. I now have the deep pan and extension with drain, so that will be nice for future projects.

    Only problem is that shortly into the first test drive I got pulled over. Turns out I have backup lights in ALL driven gears rather than just R. When I tested, they were off in Park, on in Reverse, and off in Neutral, so I assumed everything was good. I really hate how that neutral/reverse switch works.

    Slightly related is the ignition switches available these days are junk. I know I dumped a bunch of juice through it, but it was in pieces inside the column, hence the things powered in the off position and smoke. If this switch breaks apart like the last couple I think I'm just going to wire it for toggle switches and a pushbutton start.
    Last edited by doublechaz; 12-11-2017 at 10:39 PM.

  7. #16
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77rr2x4s's Avatar
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    I would look for a NOS ignition switch. What year car is it? I had a extra NOS switch for a 76. I think the connector is different for 77 up but I`m not 100% without looking up the part numbers. Also the china made back up switches are junk too. 2932820 is the mopar number for that. I put a China b/u switch in my charger and the tip inside wore off in no time. I put in a NOS one and never had another problem.
    Last edited by 77rr2x4s; 12-12-2017 at 12:50 PM.

  8. #17
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 76sassygrassVolare's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doublechaz View Post
    Finally all the various parts arrived and time/daylight worked out to put everything back together. That was mainly electrical repair stuff that prevented me from starting and driving.

    The transmission is much better now than it was before. That is certainly becuase I was forced to adjust the throttle kickdown linkage that has been wrong since forever. I now have the deep pan and extension with drain, so that will be nice for future projects.

    Only problem is that shortly into the first test drive I got pulled over. Turns out I have backup lights in ALL driven gears rather than just R. When I tested, they were off in Park, on in Reverse, and off in Neutral, so I assumed everything was good. I really hate how that neutral/reverse switch works.

    Slightly related is the ignition switches available these days are junk. I know I dumped a bunch of juice through it, but it was in pieces inside the column, hence the things powered in the off position and smoke. If this switch breaks apart like the last couple I think I'm just going to wire it for toggle switches and a pushbutton start.
    Good deal getting all back together and getting the tranny & kickdown working better...too bad about getting pulled over & the reverse lights, hopefully no ticket was issued

  9. #18
    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    Just a warning so no big. I was pretty surprised to see the lights since I knew I wasn't speeding or failing to signal or anything.

    I should have put a new gasket on the original switch years ago. That replacement didn't do backup lights at all. This one does them too much. The original worked.

  10. #19
    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    After looking at how these backup light switches are supposed to work I thought maybe I didn't have it screwed in all the way. I only used about 20 in lbs to put it in. When I got to about 30 the head ripped off and left the threads in the hole. Great! Yeah 30 inch pounds. That's some high grade steel right there.

    I got another switch and when I got it back in there I noticed that the actual problem is that there is a little snap on plastic part on the sector. That plastic part is supposed to push the tip part of the switch in when selecting forward gears, but that end of the plastic is broken off. Where in the hot places do I get that bit?

    EDIT: Found it finally. It's not a transmission part according to all the parts catalogs. It's a valve body part. The official name is "Neutral Safety Backup Switch Insulator" Sonnax part # 22229-03. About $20.

    Looks like from the new one quite a lot of mine is missing. Not sure when that happened because the switch I had in there didn't do backup lights at all in any position. If it had I'm sure it would have in all driven gears since that bit was missing when I openned it up for all of this.

    Anywho, it feels good to be on top of this problem. All that remains is to rivet the thing in and put in about 5 quarts of ATF. In theory...
    Last edited by doublechaz; 01-14-2018 at 08:45 PM.

  11. #20
    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    The part finally came and I drilled out the rivet that holds the old one in. But the new one can't be riveted in with the rooster comb in the car. So now I'm waiting for a chance to work without flashlights.

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