+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: 1979 Volarie - wheel issue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    2
    Country: United States
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Default 1979 Volarie - wheel issue

    I've been working on a 1979 Volarie, and seems like the camber of the wheels is going negative when backing up, then going positive when going forward (slow speeds). I have changed the RF spindle, all 4 ball joins, front wheel bearings and races, and wheels. Still does it. It seems like it's at the wheel, you can see backing up seems like the wheel get's even with the backing plate at the bottom, then pulling forward, the top of the backing plate get's even with the top of the backside of the wheel. Shaking the front end, everything is tight. Any idea's?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Tomball TX 77375
    Posts
    9,030
    Country: United States
    Thanks
    96
    Thanked 249 Times in 225 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pontiacmrc1 View Post
    I've been working on a 1979 Volarie, and seems like the camber of the wheels is going negative when backing up, then going positive when going forward (slow speeds). I have changed the RF spindle, all 4 ball joins, front wheel bearings and races, and wheels. Still does it. It seems like it's at the wheel, you can see backing up seems like the wheel get's even with the backing plate at the bottom, then pulling forward, the top of the backing plate get's even with the top of the backside of the wheel. Shaking the front end, everything is tight. Any idea's?
    Check here for the suspension pictures. I would say check and replace your upper control arm bushings, lower control arm and the torsion bar bushings. The torsion bar acts like a strut bar that mopar used in the old torsion bar setup.

    http://www.aspenandvolare.com/showth...ion-breakdowns
    1977 Aspen R/T 318 4 speed..under construction. Please Donate to keep the site secure from hackers.


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    2
    Country: United States
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Default

    I looked at the diagrams, and checked everything under the car, all the bushings are tight, they are dry-rotted, but they're tight, no obvious movements....It seems like it's all in the wheel bearings, however I replaced them, along with putting different wheels on....it had wheels spacers then wheels on it before, and I had a set of wheels that bolted right on to it...not sure what it is....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    125
    Country: Canada
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 16 Times in 12 Posts

    Default

    If the wheel is moving that much, it should be fairly easy to isolate the issue. First did you set the bearings first then set the preload properly? Easiest way to do this is.....as you tighten the bearing nut, spin the wheel and just crank the bearing nut really tight...then back off the nut with out touching the wheel assembly until the nut is loose...retighten the nut until you feel it starting to drag.then just go until you can slip the cotter pin in....the rim you put on..was it a dodge rim or a ford rim....some ford rims, the center register is too small...even though the bolt pattern is the same, with the smaller register it wont sit properly on the hub and move....if that is all good.....put a jack under the lower control arm...jack up until the tire just clears, grab the tire at about 11 and 5...then about 2 and 7 (gets a little more leverage than the traditional 9 and 3 and the 12 and 6 positions)and try to "wiggle" the tire...use some muscle..lol.. this will check you ball joints, tie rod ends and wheel bearing play....there should be no play at all with freshly set wheel bearings at the tire...if there is...get someone to look while you move the tire to determine where the play is coming from ( suspension, steering etc)...for the bushing on the control arms...you really need to get in there with a pry par...pull off the wheel with the vehicle on stands..beside the bushing, use the bar to try and move the bushing forward/back and in/out...some bushing compression is normal...but you will feel the difference between that and worn out.

    From reading your posts a little more closely, I would be suspecting the rims...make sure they sit on the hub properly ( they should easily sit flush on the hub with out having to use force to get them there)
    Last edited by mcfly68; 02-22-2012 at 11:42 PM. Reason: spelling

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Tomball TX 77375
    Posts
    9,030
    Country: United States
    Thanks
    96
    Thanked 249 Times in 225 Posts

    Default

    Lower and upper control arm bushings would give you that positive/negative camber action. Like mcfly68 mention on the wheel bearings also. Wrong wheels? And you should have used some acorn lug nuts also.
    1977 Aspen R/T 318 4 speed..under construction. Please Donate to keep the site secure from hackers.


+ Reply to Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts