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Thread: Aspen off season projects

  1. #411
    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    I mentioned this in the "What did you do to your F" thread, the bad tire wear and drift to the right while driving looks to be the upper control arm mounting brackets "relaxing" a bit on the k-frame. A preliminary check using a level with a pair of bolts attached to go against the lip of the wheel shows about 1/4" gap (with the level held plumb) on the left and roughly half that on the right. Explains the drift to the right. A tape across the tire tread shows at LEAST 1/2" toe out. Hardly an accurate way of measuring alignment but close enough to know something is amiss. When camber changes, so does toe. I can visually see the toe out by just eyeballing it it's bad enough.

    Looks like I'll need to go with the old Chrysler TSB fix and make spacer shims to go under the brackets. When I lined it up in 2013 (about 3,000 miles ago) the camber was dead nuts and I put as much caster in as possible (around 3.50 degrees) while keeping camber correct.

    Now, the severe brake pull to the right will take some digging and diagnosing. It pulled right when braking a bit for a long time but I got used to it and never thought to look into it. When I took the regular replacement pads out and put in EBC yellow stuff pads for better stopping power with manual brakes, the pull got really bad. Bad enough the car isn't safe to drive so,,,,,,,,,,,,,,it's down for the season which is basically over anyways.

    Tires with 3,000 or so miles on them. Definitely there's a problem, lol.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00342.jpg   DSC00340.jpg  
    Last edited by aspen79; 10-14-2019 at 07:41 PM.
    1979 Aspen Sunrise 500". Bought in 1987 with 72,000 miles and a mighty E24 California emission 90hp leaning tower of power/4-speed
    1996 Dakota with a torque monster (not) 3.9L V-6 and automatic owned since 1998. Now demoted to winter duty
    2008 Ford Mustang V6, the new summer daily driver

  2. #412
    Aspen and Volare Super Member Mopars1's Avatar
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    Wow! That is not good. I think I am going to need the spacers called out in a tsb many years ago very soon myself
    1977 Dodge Aspen R/T Super Pak T-Tops
    2007 Dodge Ram 1500 HEMI Quad Cab 4WD
    2016 Dodge Dart GT Sport
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  3. #413
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77rr2x4s's Avatar
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    Just for the need to know. Where would the shims go? Under the shaft to raise it up?

  4. #414
    Aspen and Volare Administrator Rattle Trap's Avatar
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    I recall seeing something under shafts on some I cut up. But I'm really drawing a blank right now. Is that what corrects the throbbing even after everything else is brand new?
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  5. #415
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77rr2x4s's Avatar
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    I was reading somewhere that over time or abuse the frame opens up some( sags) and can cause problems with aligning these cars. I don`t know if it is true or not.

  6. #416
    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    The shims go under the upper control arm brackets, between the bracket and the k-frame "stand". Hard to explain......It's the part bolted to the k-frame with 4 bolts that the arm bolts to. The shims move the bracket out so you can get the correct camber angle. Same result as an offset control arm shaft.

    I'm guessing the stands on the k-frame sagged inward a little since I built the car. At first the camber was very close to the preferred spec but obviously that has changed, lol. That problem should be easy to solve, once I cut, or have cut, some shims. I'm leaning towards having them made. Everyone says to use 1/4" material and you can't really cut that with a jig saw. Maybe water jet or laser cut. There's a number of places around here that can do it.

    Then there's the bad brake pull.................One thing at a time, right?!
    1979 Aspen Sunrise 500". Bought in 1987 with 72,000 miles and a mighty E24 California emission 90hp leaning tower of power/4-speed
    1996 Dakota with a torque monster (not) 3.9L V-6 and automatic owned since 1998. Now demoted to winter duty
    2008 Ford Mustang V6, the new summer daily driver

  7. #417
    Aspen and Volare Super Member Mopars1's Avatar
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    I do not have any shims myself but the shims are two different sizes and the bigger ones go under the front bolts on each side and the smaller shims go under the rear bolts on both sides. The top plates that bolt to the uprights of the k member has four bolts holding them down. That is where the shims go underneath netween the two and you have to use longer bolts I believe. That is all I can remember about the tsb.
    1977 Dodge Aspen R/T Super Pak T-Tops
    2007 Dodge Ram 1500 HEMI Quad Cab 4WD
    2016 Dodge Dart GT Sport
    2017 Dodge Challenger R/T

  8. #418
    Aspen and Volare Administrator Rattle Trap's Avatar
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    Yeah yeah! The big fender shim looking things right? Then there's also the recall brackets that go over the plates at top bolt holes to the dog bone studs. The cop and late M K-members had bent plate steel reinforcement of the UCA stands. Also bent U plates welded along the side seams to reduce flex, and even Finally a plate across the center of the sway bar slot making the front more rigid in the most obvious weak spot. I'm thinking I may actually need to drop my K and do these reinforcements to end my throbbing issue at speed where all else seems correct at rest. I'm worried about bending the K from the heat though without a jigged lock on its position.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2019-10-15 20.57.27.jpg   2019-10-15 20.57.45.jpg  
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  9. #419
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77rr2x4s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aspen79 View Post
    The shims go under the upper control arm brackets, between the bracket and the k-frame "stand". Hard to explain......It's the part bolted to the k-frame with 4 bolts that the arm bolts to. The shims move the bracket out so you can get the correct camber angle. Same result as an offset control arm shaft.

    I'm guessing the stands on the k-frame sagged inward a little since I built the car. At first the camber was very close to the preferred spec but obviously that has changed, lol. That problem should be easy to solve, once I cut, or have cut, some shims. I'm leaning towards having them made. Everyone says to use 1/4" material and you can't really cut that with a jig saw. Maybe water jet or laser cut. There's a number of places around here that can do it.

    Then there's the bad brake pull.................One thing at a time, right?!
    Hey, If you get some made up let us know what they cost and maybe you can have them make a few sets.

  10. #420
    Aspen and Volare Super Member Mopars1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rattle Trap View Post
    Yeah yeah! The big fender shim looking things right? Then there's also the recall brackets that go over the plates at top bolt holes to the dog bone studs.
    Yes they were slotted and two different lengths and thicknesses. It has been a very long time and my memory is a little fuzzy but those and the recall brackets is all I had dealings with.
    1977 Dodge Aspen R/T Super Pak T-Tops
    2007 Dodge Ram 1500 HEMI Quad Cab 4WD
    2016 Dodge Dart GT Sport
    2017 Dodge Challenger R/T

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