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Thread: Aspen off season projects

  1. #11
    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    Painting the oil pan did not go to plan. When I put the first coat of Hemi Orange on, it wrinkled/lifted in a few spots and seems like it dissolved the primer I used. Guess they aren't compatable (thank you Mr. Obvious). Most of it peels right off with a razor blade. Oh well, strip it down and try again with different primer. I have some VHT gray primer that I used on the exhaust system under the VHT flat silver paint. That should bond well to the pan and be OK with the engine enamel, in theory.

    If anyone knows differently, PLEASE don't hesitate to tell me!
    1979 Aspen Sunrise 500". Bought in 1987 with 72,000 miles and a mighty E24 California emission 90hp leaning tower of power/4-speed
    1996 Dakota with a torque monster (not) 3.9L V-6 and automatic owned since 1998. Now demoted to winter duty
    2008 Ford Mustang V6, the new summer daily driver

  2. #12
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77rr2x4s's Avatar
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    I have seen paint literally fall off those goldish plated pans. Don`t know why. You may want to take the finish off. I don`t know what VHT paint is but generally you don`t want to spray lacquer over enamel. Personally I would skip the primer and spray it directly to the metal.
    Last edited by 77rr2x4s; 12-03-2016 at 09:19 PM.

  3. #13
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77superpak's Avatar
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    What brand paint are you using? Maybe try Duplicolor engine primer?

  4. #14
    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    VHT=Very High Temperature and is used for things like headers and exhaust systems. Very durable and doesn't burn off. VHT is the brand name. They also make engine enamel, caliper paint, wheel paint, etc.......


    Ironically enough, the Hemi Orange is Dupli-Color. Probably should just go to Ace or something and get the right stuff.

    The gold anodizing may be the actual problem. I only scuffed it a bit with a scuff pad. Now I've begun sanding it all off down to bare metal. It will fit in the blast cabinet but,,,,,,,,,,,would be about impossible to do. It's only a "benchtop" unit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails VHT.jpg  
    Last edited by aspen79; 12-03-2016 at 10:39 PM.
    1979 Aspen Sunrise 500". Bought in 1987 with 72,000 miles and a mighty E24 California emission 90hp leaning tower of power/4-speed
    1996 Dakota with a torque monster (not) 3.9L V-6 and automatic owned since 1998. Now demoted to winter duty
    2008 Ford Mustang V6, the new summer daily driver

  5. #15
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77rr2x4s's Avatar
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    Yea, Sorry I wasn`t more clear. I know what VHT paint is but I was wondering if it was lacquer or enamel? I had a Milodon pan with a gold finish that the paint would not stay adhered no matter what I used. I would sand it down and paint directly to the bare metal. That was how the factory did it .
    Last edited by 77rr2x4s; 12-04-2016 at 02:42 AM.

  6. #16
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77rr2x4s's Avatar
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    PS, I used black VHT epoxy paint paint on some metal parts and it scratched so easy it wasn`t funny. The can said it was durable and I figured epoxy paint would be a hard finish. Not so in my experience.

  7. #17
    Aspen and Volare Administrator White Aspen R/T's Avatar
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    The problem with ceramic paint is that it is real hard and brittle when it drys. It can chip easy.
    AspenandVolare Administrator

  8. #18
    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    I've never used VHT paint on anything except my exhaust system. On there, once it's fully cured from the heat, it holds up very well and doesn't scratch easily. Going on 3 years and the exhaust system still looks good.

    The engine paint is enamel (Dupli-Color) and the primer I used (Supermix) is also enamel but,,,,,,,different brands and that's a rookie mistake. Same as painting the car, always use the same brand paint products and system from start to finish.

    It was doomed from the beginning. The gold iridite and two brands of paint and SOMEONE getting in too much of a hurry, bad things.

    Need paint like they used on my Dakota oil pan and trans pan (also valve covers and air filter housing). Over 21 years old and 160,000 miles and they all literally look like brand new yet.
    Last edited by aspen79; 12-04-2016 at 08:52 AM.
    1979 Aspen Sunrise 500". Bought in 1987 with 72,000 miles and a mighty E24 California emission 90hp leaning tower of power/4-speed
    1996 Dakota with a torque monster (not) 3.9L V-6 and automatic owned since 1998. Now demoted to winter duty
    2008 Ford Mustang V6, the new summer daily driver

  9. #19
    Aspen and Volare Administrator Rattle Trap's Avatar
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    I've had a similar problem with oil pans. What's worked for me is to sand them bare and heavily wipe several times with laquer thinner. Then mist with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. You don't want a "coating" like a filler primer. Just an adhesion promoter. Then put the paint on after it's fully dried overnight. I've sprayed everything from just about any brand of rattle can to real automotive paint over a base of cured Rustoleum primer successfully. As long as you aren't trying to shoot urethane over it primer is primer. Everything I painted on the Cordoba started with Rustoleum in the "25% More FREE" cans, and ended up with real automotive grade paints and Eastwood spray can specialty paints over it. It's more about surface prep than choice of product. I did a super low budget job on the front fender of a red '79 Trans Am. Used Rustoleum rusty metal primer and whatever brand of spray can Ford Engine Red was on the NAPA shelf. That's what my friend wanted. Just make the new junkyard fender red. Baked it on with a torpedo heater and buffed it up. Was actually a perfect match and still unnoticeable 14 years later!
    Volare Magnet

  10. #20
    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    Prep is 95% of any paint job they say, and it's true.

    Now I only have to resist the urge to start block sanding the pan to get rid of stamping marks and stuff. Can't lie, the thought ran through my mind last evening.

    "It's just an oil pan, it's just an oil pan, it's just an oil pan" LOL

    Kind of a side note: One of the best paint jobs I ever did was on my first car ('70 Barracuda Gran Coupe). It was basically rattle can black. My uncle gave me some Candy Apple Red enamel he had on the shelf in his shop. I mask the car off, along with a stripe pattern, scuffed the paint and started spraying, using a Sears siphon feed spray gun made more for house paint than automotive. It was raining out, temps around 45 degrees and sprayed it in my parents open garage. Didn't worry about technique or anything because I assumed it wouldn't come out very good no matter what. Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,that paint came out perfectly even, not a speck of orange peel and looked like glass. Afterwards wished I'd have spent a little more time on surface prep but the car looked 1000% better than it ever did as long as I'd owned it. In theory it should have come out like crap with that spray gun and especially those weather conditions though.
    1979 Aspen Sunrise 500". Bought in 1987 with 72,000 miles and a mighty E24 California emission 90hp leaning tower of power/4-speed
    1996 Dakota with a torque monster (not) 3.9L V-6 and automatic owned since 1998. Now demoted to winter duty
    2008 Ford Mustang V6, the new summer daily driver

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