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Thread: Slant 6 to 451 Stroker Engine swap in the 79 Volare Sleeper

  1. #1
    Aspen and Volare Junior Member mopar4ever's Avatar
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    Slant 6 to 451 Stroker Engine swap in the 79 Volare Sleeper

    If you do not want to read my story you can go to the bottom and see the different highlights and good to know stuff.

    Well first thing was to you guest it, remove the slant 6 and trany. Unhooked all wires and marked them with tape and a description. Wow this is going to be easy, so I thought. Got the b-block picked up and put the engine mounts from http://www.engine-swaps.com. Followed the instructions and cut the drivers side car engine mount down and drilled the new mount hole. Here goes nothing, this will be easy, that would be the last time I would think this for the rest of the swap. Lowered the engine in place and found that the oil pump was hitting the frame. Pulled the engine out and did some grinding. Put the engine back in, seen the oil pump and filter was still hitting. Pulled engine and did some more grinding. This went on for about 6 times, engine in and out. Finally the engine is in and nothing touching. By the way the oil pan I used was a 971 oil pan with an extra deep sump, wow it fits with no grinding.
    Now time to put the headers in. I was using 73 B-body headers. I heard they would fit and I have 2 different sets. Tried and tried but with the heads still having the exhaust studs in there was no way. So I figured I would remove the studs. You got it, broke the first one off. So out comes the engine again. Heads removed, took them to the machine shop, removed the studs and cleaned them up. Put them back on the engine and back in it goes. Now the headers will go right in. Nope, had to pick the engine up, wiggle the headers in and they still hit. Passenger side hit the inner wheel well. After thinking long and hard I decided to modify the car, that I paid $1600 for, to fit my engine, that I have way to much money in, in the Sleeper. On the passenger side I cut the inner fender filler plate in half. I am talking about the plate that you can take 2 screws out and remove. I also had to dent the header at the frame. On the driver side I had to dent the header at the power steering and at the firewall and I dented the firewall slightly just for good measure.
    Next step was to install the 727 trany with the manual valve body and 3500-stall converter. I slid the small high torque starter in at the header and up went the trany. Bolted it up and put the mount on, no drilling no grinding, mount went to the same location with no problem. Went to hook up the speedometer, the gears and mounting are different. Ordered a cable from a 80 dodge truck part number 03192 from advance auto works great. Put the trany lines on, had to use the ones from the 73 B-body. Hooked up shifter linkage, had to replace the linkage plate on the 727 trany from the trany I removed and had to use the shift arm from the trany that was removed. Works great.
    Installed starter, car wires had to be straightened out slightly to hook up to high torque mini starter, very easy.
    Installed intake (383 torker) and carb (850 double pumper). Had to use throttle bracket from 73 B-block. Starting to look like an engine again. Had to use a small air cleaner for hood clearance, because the intake is a bit taller than stock.
    Oil pressure sending unit in engine would not work with car wiring so I installed an oil pressure gauge. This was no big deal because I had one and the car just had an idiot light anyway.
    Time to hook up the wires; they say the Slant 6 wiring is the same as the B-block. Well as I stated above the oil pressure wire was different, but no big deal I used the bigger power wire from it to run my electric water pump. The water temperature sending unit wire was to short so I added a length of wire. The coil wires work fine because I am mounting the coil on the fender, if I were going to mount it on the engine I would have to make the wires longer. There are many wires that I did not use; this is fine because I am using one of the other power wires to run my electric fans when I install them.
    Installed distributor cap and plug wires, no big deal but I did have to run the wires a little differently than I had them in the b-body because of clearance issues.
    Well power steering pump time, well I guess the brackets from the slant 6 will not work, looked and looked for a bracket, everyone I found was not the same as the one I had in my 73 Plymouth, that is now owned by my son. Then I found a sight on the Internet with all the brackets. The reason I could not find my bracket was because it was a b-block power steering bracket with A/C. All the brackets I found were without A/C. Of course the one for A/C cost $30 more. No I do not have A/C on but I am using an electrical water pump and I need the power steering pump lower to run the belt. So I borrowed the bracket from my son and ordered him a non-A/C bracket. I am glad I sold my old car to my son. The power steering pressure line also needed changed to the 73 Plymouth one because the Volare one bends right into the header.
    Time to build the 8-¼ rear to put in the place of the 7-¼ rear. Well 1st thing was to find a rear that fit. Had a heck of a time finding one but finally found one out of a 70 Coronet. Got an Auburn carrier and 4.10 Richmond gears. Ordered a bearing kit, it came with the bearings the Auburn instructions said to get. Well they did not fit the rear housing. After a little research I found the bearings that worked with this set up, LM102949 and LM102910. Had to grind a little on the housing and install the carrier and bearings. Installed new 5 leaf, leaf springs. Had to replace the shock mounts with B-body mount plates. Had to use B-body shocks. Also had to replace the leaf spring bolt and took the back plates and brakes off the 7 ¼ rear and removed the rear and installed the 8 ¼ rear. Installed backing plates from the 7-¼ rear, installed axles with new longer studs. Installed snubber part number MRE447 from Mancini racing. One step closer to the ¼ mile strip.
    Installed Aluminum radiator with electric fans and external tranny fluid cooler.
    Replaced front brake rotors with drilled and slotted rotors.
    Had drive shaft made up 44 7/8 inches long center of u-joint to center of u-joint and used a new tranny yoke from 73 Satellite. Installed drive shaft and drive shaft safety loop.
    Changed and filled all fluids.
    Installed 3 inch exhaust with fake cats.
    Installed shift light and tach.
    Started up for the first time and took it for a ride. Rides nice but man what power can’t wait to put the slicks on and get it on the track.
    Good luck with your build if you chose to undertake the B-block swap.








    1. Engine mount from http://www.engine-swaps.com
    2. Cut and drill Drives side car engine mount
    3. Grind off some of the car engine mount to fit oil pump and oil filter
    4. Oil pan I used was, I think, a 971 with a deep sump.
    5. Headers used were Summit headers for a 73 B-body
    6. Ensure heads do not have exhaust manifolds studs, you must use bolts for your headers.
    7. Cut passenger side inner fender filler plate in half and dented header to fit.
    8. Dented header at power steering and at firewall and dented firewall
    9. Speedometer cable from 80 dodge truck part number 03192
    10. Trany lines from 73 B-body
    11. Linkage bracket on trany and shift arm on trany from trany removed.
    12. Start wires hook right up, if using high torque mini starter small modification needed to hook up.
    13. Throttle cable bracket used from B-block
    14. Installed oil pressure gauge because wires on car did not match sending unit on engine.
    15. Some wires are not long enough, you will have to lengthen them (temp sensor wire, coil wires depending on location) and a lot of the wiring is not used.
    16. Need to use a power steering bracket set up from a B or RB block.
    17. Need to use power steering pressure line from a 73 Plymouth Satellite with the 400ci engine.
    18. Install rebuilt rear that can handle the B-block
    19. Installed Aluminum radiator
    20. Changed front rotors to drilled and slotted style.
    21. Installed drive shaft and safety loop
    22. Changed and filled all fluids
    23. Installed exhaust
    24. Drive and have fun

  2. #2
    Aspen and Volare Super Member Stalkervette's Avatar
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    Excellent build summary!

    I remember the first crate 360 I had it was a nightmare trying to find pulleys - everything I bought was off just enough so I could not make it work. At the end of the day this forum was heaven sent.

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    Aspen and Volare Super Member 76sassygrassVolare's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing , sounds like a real pita... but also sounds like it will be worth it. Any pics??

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    Aspen and Volare Junior Member mopar4ever's Avatar
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    It was a pain at times but most of the time it was nice working with my son building it. It was very well worth it, I will have to dig up some pictures.

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    Aspen and Volare Junior Member
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    Reminds me a lot of my first a-body build with an RB. Had really similar clearance issues. I had to slot the mounting holes for the steering gear and actually turn it at a slight angle to clear the stock hp exhaust manifolds. I just bought a 79 funrunner with a 413 already installed and it fits a lot nicer then the older a body. Let us know what kind of times you get at the track and more importantly, have fun!

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    Aspen and Volare Member SixPakSC78's Avatar
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    love this thread! ill be building soon a 76 roadrunner sporkpak clone with a 73 440, not sure if I'm going 727 or 4 speed yet. did the slant 6 to RB block motor mounts you bought for an A body?

  7. #7
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 76sassygrassVolare's Avatar
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    '73 & Up A,B,C,F,M,J-Body S6 to B/RB Conversion Kit

    The kit from Schumacher is the same for all the above. http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/Pr...Year/73UP.html

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    Aspen and Volare Junior Member
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    I had a 77 Volare Wagon with a 318, and a 1974 Duster with a non-original 340 engine built and with the bumpy cam idle. Pulled the 340 and sold the Duster body. The 340 went right into the Volare with one change, a plate that went around the starter (can't remember exactly, it's been a while). Same motor mounts, transmission bolted right up etc. It was really simple, and I am by no means an accomplished mechanic, I'm more of a parts swapper, and it worked. It was great until one day during a bad storm a tree fell on the car right across the back doors, a sad sad day. Pulled the 340 again and it is in my garage, waiting to go into a 1978 Dodge Aspen Wagon.

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