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Thread: Torsion bar bushing replacement

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    Aspen and Volare Member sjatm941's Avatar
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    Torsion bar bushing replacement

    anyone done this ? im about to embark on this process. could use some tips. ive already drilled out the plates on the middle bushing and im looking at the ends wondering how it comes apart. i understand these were un servicable from the factory . any tips ?Looks like i need to remove the pin. thats what im stuck on . So i got poly replacements from http://www.polybushings.com/pages/1100.html

    ive also run across this page which helps a little bit http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/...e_survival.pdf

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    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    I did mine a few years ago.

    To get the control arm end off first you have to drill the head off the rivet. You must be *very* careful to only remove material from the head and not get into the torsion bar *at all*. You're not keeping the end bushing housings right? New ones come with the poly? So use an oversized drill to get the head, but first use a center punch and a much smaller bit to get yourself located perfectly centered on that head. Then when the big drill starts in it will shear the head from the shank before you go too deep.

    Next go to a drill a little smaller than the shank of the rivet and remove some more until you are real close to the torsion bar. You should be able to see this between the housing hole and the shank. Bright light.

    Next you want a strong steel rod just smaller than the rivet. Shorter is better for strength, but longer is better for not breaking your wrist with the hammer. Vise grips are your friend if you can wield them with enough skill to keep the rod straight.

    You need about a five pound hammer to beat that rivet out of there.

    One of mine was quite a lot of work.

    The other was nearly impossible. Riveting expands the shank of the rivet in the hole and sometimes they won't let go even with the head gone. This part is very sensitive so pray you don't have to do it. If it is that tight, you have to drill down through the whole shank, but not the far head, with a bit that is 1/16 to 1/32 smaller than the shank. You must be super careful to stay inside the rivet with your drill and not get into the torsion bar. This is really hard to do. This removes so much metal that the shank can collapse inward on itself so that you can drive it out with the same size rod that will push down through there to the far head.

    I've never heard anyone say so, but the torsion bars being springs I'm sure you would risk ruining them if you try to use heat to get that rivet out. PB blaster and a lot of hammer work only. Oh, and I did my rivets while the control arm end was still attached so that hitting it with a hammer wasn't just boinging on the spring force, but was rigidly supported by the rest of the suspension. An air impact hammer would probably be great if you had the right tip for it. Doing all this with the bar out of the car with good machine tools would probably be easier, too. A press would help, anyway.
    Last edited by doublechaz; 04-29-2018 at 07:48 PM.

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    Aspen and Volare Member sjatm941's Avatar
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    the bushings i purchased are poly but i retain my old metal parts . my idea was grind off one end of the rivet or pin what ever you call it and then punch the pin out .

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    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    If you are keeping that metal part you just have to be a little more careful with the large drill bit to not enlarge the hole in the housing.

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    Aspen and Volare Member sjatm941's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doublechaz View Post
    If you are keeping that metal part you just have to be a little more careful with the large drill bit to not enlarge the hole in the housing.
    im going to try cutting off one end as close to the housing as possible and tap it out , i also have a press so it might be the ticket rather than hammer

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    Aspen and Volare Member sjatm941's Avatar
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    yeah that didn't go well The end bushing housings ,the metal clamps get destroyed in the process. , forget drilling out the weld it was like the two halves were welded together not just the spot weld , anyone know where replacements can be had for these ? the pin was the easy part to get out. I dont believe the bushings i have coming have any metal parts with them . Im not sure if Firm feel supply's metal parts with the their end bushings either .

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    Aspen and Volare Member Locomotion's Avatar
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    No metal parts, but if you don't have the bushings yet - http://www.polybushings.com/pages/1100.html

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