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Thread: Dual 2.5 inch exhaust

  1. #1
    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    Dual 2.5 inch exhaust

    I did my first stainless TIG weld for the exhaust tonight. It's not the best looking weld in the world, but it should do.

    I think I have all the major parts on hand now. It will take a long time with all this stuff at the rate I work on things.

    All told I have headers, header adapters, O2 bungs, flexis, CATs, xpipe parts, resonators, straight through mufflers, over axle kit, a ton of flanges to bolt all that together, lots of gaskets, although I have to replace the header gaskets, and I still need some kind of hardware for the hangers.

    Once I get some of the basic welding done I can get under the car and figure out the fit and position of the rest.

    I've never done this level of exhaust work before. I hope I didn't bite off more than I can chew...

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    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    I built the exhaust for my car using aluminized steel 2.5" straight tubing and mandrel u-bends. Lots of measuring, angle finding, cutting the pieces from the u-bends keeping the correct angle, fitting, tacking, welding, grinding, finishing........................Probably slid under the car and then back out at least 200 times. I was 10 years younger then and don't think I could do it again, lol.
    1979 Aspen Sunrise 500". Bought in 1987 with 72,000 miles and a mighty E24 California emission 90hp leaning tower of power/4-speed
    1996 Dakota with a torque monster (not) 3.9L V-6 and automatic owned since 1998. Now demoted to winter duty
    2008 Ford Mustang V6, the new summer daily driver

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    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    I think in order to pull this off I'll have to finish stripping the parts car and dig a pit where it is, or else get the garage finished and cut a hole in the floor. It will take a lot of trips under there either way...

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    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    I'd have almost given anything for a hoist when doing mine.
    1979 Aspen Sunrise 500". Bought in 1987 with 72,000 miles and a mighty E24 California emission 90hp leaning tower of power/4-speed
    1996 Dakota with a torque monster (not) 3.9L V-6 and automatic owned since 1998. Now demoted to winter duty
    2008 Ford Mustang V6, the new summer daily driver

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    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    I have as part of this project a number of 2.5 inch stainless parts. The two bolt weld on flanges are exactly 2.500 inside the big hole. The muffles, cats, etc that I want to weld them to have tube outside diameters of 2.660. I was expecting to put the tube down inside the flange before welding as it is on my modern car. But clearly that isn't going to happen as is.

    Do people just butt weld the flange to the tube? Or should I turn the holes bigger in the flanges? I don't think I should find a way to swage the tubes smaller.

    The butt weld will be fairly tough to execute as it will be .058 wall tube to .392 flange. In this case would you weld it from the outside of the tube, or use a stubby and weld it on the inside?

    Thanks.

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    Aspen and Volare Member Badvert65's Avatar
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    Whichever of the two has the larger ID, I would buy a pipe expander and swedge the larger one just big enough to fit over the smaller one.
    jus sayin

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    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    A butt weld would work but, it'd be better if the flange was over the outside of the pipe. My idea would be enlarge the holes in the flanges slightly so the pipe is a tight slip fit and then weld.
    1979 Aspen Sunrise 500". Bought in 1987 with 72,000 miles and a mighty E24 California emission 90hp leaning tower of power/4-speed
    1996 Dakota with a torque monster (not) 3.9L V-6 and automatic owned since 1998. Now demoted to winter duty
    2008 Ford Mustang V6, the new summer daily driver

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to aspen79 For This Useful Post:

    doublechaz (3 Weeks Ago)

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    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    That's what I was thinking. I just didn't want to try to get time on the lathe. Thanks.

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    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    Seems a carbide burr can not be bought in this area. They can order one, be here in about two weeks. Good thing I don't need a transmission belt...

    First attempt at avoiding the lathe is a fail.

  11. #10
    Aspen and Volare Administrator Rattle Trap's Avatar
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    Sounds like exactly the reason I toss most of my used grinding wheels on a pile instead of in the trash. They aren't truly done even though they're small, when a job like this comes up. Of course I discovered the same thing about burrs so I keep a couple of those around too. And if I'm really desperate to not set up the lathe, there's always my Dremel. I have used up a lot of burrs on that and they're on the shelf at every Walmart and Home Depot. I just don't go fast or long with it. Don't need to burn up another shaft bearing. So a little here and a little more later.
    Volare Magnet

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