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Thread: 2 Door Hardtop Window Seals (not T Top)

  1. #1
    slant six
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    2 Door Hardtop Window Seals (not T Top)

    Has anyone used the Metro Moulded Parts Window seals with success on their cars?

    https://www.metrommp.com/

    I just bought a set for my daily driver, the "New" NOS one wore out - it had been on there about 15 years.

    The Repo metro moulded one seems nice, but it has so much material in the rear corner area that the glass dosent sit right in there.

    I have tried adjusting the regulation stops etc on the glass and it helps a bit but it's tricky.


    Just wanted to see what experience anyone else had with this part.


    Greg

  2. #2
    Aspen and Volare Super Member 77superpak's Avatar
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    I experienced the same dilemma with my set too. But it is better than dry, cracked, worn out ones, or none at all. Water doesn't get inside while I'm driving. Only when I wash the car. Especially the automated car washes. But then I figured to wad up some paper towel to fill the gap. Problem solved, sort of.

  3. #3
    slant six
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    yes, it seems like the material from metro is far superior to the OE material, Problem is for me so far, they don't crush down like oe and then there are some weirdo gaps due to this,

    I also cannot roll up the window yet, It gets caught and bunches up the b pillar part of the seal.

    I think I will have to take the 4 1/2" hand grinder with a 120 grit sander wheel to sand down the rubber a bit - I hate to do that to new seals but They just don't fit right yet. :-(

    Greg

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    Aspen and Volare Administrator Rattle Trap's Avatar
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    Yes, theyre all too thick in the back and I don't think the new rubber has the same amount of whatever made them slippery in them. I have the same troubles and it doesn't matter who you buy from. THANX EPA! LOVE YOU GUYS!!! Not.
    I've used black 3M body sealer to attach my B-pillars and top section of A-pillars around the front curve to address bunching and pulling loose. Aside from that, use a non-silicone protectant and just keep working them til you have to rebuild the regulators...
    Volare Magnet

  5. #5
    slant six
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    Thanks rattle trap, I need to put some slippery stuff on the b pillar part of the seal - I did not do that yet.


    Greg

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    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    Haven't had any problems with them bunching or binding on the glass and got them to seal PRETTY good. It did take hours of fiddling with glass adjustments though. I mean "hours" literally. Biggest problem is where the Metro rood rail seals meet the crap Steele door opening seals.

    As mentioned by others, they are way better than the petrified and cracked originals and since there is no other choice...............................Well, NOS would be, provided you can find them and your wallet is deep enough, AND they've been stored correctly and aren't just brand new 30 year old parts that aren't any good. NOS only means it's never been installed or used, doesn't necessarily mean it's any good.

    Have to wonder also, how well did "our" cars seal when brand new? You guys that were lucky enough to buy one new, do you remember?

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    Aspen and Volare Junior Member Custom Coupe's Avatar
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    My '79 never leaked when new as far as I can remember, but at highway speed, the glass used to push out at the top - really made a lot of wind noise. Tried adjusting several times, but couldn't make it any better. Replacement seals look better than old weather cracked ones, but they're just not formed correctly at the corner.

  8. #8
    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    That's mostly what I meant by "leak" was air more than water. Mine does the same thing on the freeway, top pulls away slightly and bring on the windnoise. Not much a person can do about it with the design of the window regulator. Funnily enough, back in the late '80's/early '90's when I had a '78 Cordoba, not a speck of wind noise and they have same type of frameless glass and roof rail seals. Difference is the regulator is better and the glass wasn't so floppy. My Aspen has new nylon slide bushings and the fuzzy guides (the 2 little adjustable fuzz covered rubber things that bolt to the top of the door, can't think of the correct name) are new and adjusted correctly so it should be like it came from the factory. One of those "just the way the cars are built" things I guess.

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    Aspen and Volare Administrator Rattle Trap's Avatar
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    You can adjust the bar that the lower guide runs on out at the bottom and in at the top. You can add tape the the inside of the bolt in slider to force the slop out of it and help keep the window from being sucked open at the top. You can also add an extra layer of double sided adhesive to the top of the weatherstripping channel if you remove it. Still further, you can dremel the inner sides of the slots in that channel for the attachment screws to move it outboard and make better contact with the glass. It's usually 1/4" or so deeper than the bright molding along most of its installed area.
    Volare Magnet

  10. #10
    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    What I meant by "slop" is when the door is open and how much the top of the glass can move. I hate to say anything bad about Mopar but the window regulators in F-body aren't one of their finer moments in engineering. It is what it is and we'll all make the best of it!

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