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Thread: Lets see them rear ends

  1. #41
    Super Moderator 77rr2x4s's Avatar
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    IMO, the easiest would be a F body 8 1/4 obviously. Get the driveshaft along with the rear as it will be a different length. But many get rid of the ISO set up and use a 8 3/4 out of a 67 B body.

  2. #42
    Aspen and Volare Member Jansen5's Avatar
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    I’m so new to car stuff and I don’t think I picked the easiest car to learn on making a street/strip machine lol. Does the 8 3/4 need to be modified at all to fit in? Same with the 8 1/4 I can’t really find anything about f bodies on YouTube

  3. #43
    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    When I blew up my four door '76 7 1/4 I found a local 8 3/4. The guy tells me it was from a '63 B-body. It took 1/8" spacer on one side and 1/4" spacer on the other side to get my 15x8 275x60s under there without rubbing. The axle is something like 5/8" narrower than original. Maybe that was per side... It's been a while now and I'm not the "every stat for every car throughout time" guy.

    P.S. You've reminded me that I took my driveshaft to a local shop to be shortened a couple inches. Came with a straighten and balance, so that was nice. And I am running the iso deletes.
    Last edited by doublechaz; 11-01-2021 at 09:17 PM.

  4. #44
    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    The problem with rear ends is that it isn't as easy as talking about the ring gear size. They make them all in different lengths depending on what car they are going into. You have to find out the flange to flange dimension on the original and the candidate and check that it will work. I think there is a sticky here that shows the relevant measurements for all the rear ends that came in the F-body. You can find similar numbers for other bodies.

  5. #45
    Aspen and Volare Rattle Trap's Avatar
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    The best bolt in fit for higher performance would be the 8.75 from a 66-70 B-Body. Coronet or Satellite. The 66-67axle is just about exact width. The perches are only off by 1/8" so loosening the leaf springs will allow you to draw it right in. Same with the 68-70 but that housing is 1/2" wider per side outside of the perch pads which will put the same backspacing rims out a little. Still not an issue. Typically it's just a matter of getting a 3.5" dia driveshaft and having it cut to proper length then running a bastard U-joint if you don't have the same spread on the shaft as on the yoke.

    I've personally had good luck with stock 8.25 axles behind decent performance smallblocks by just running long tube headers which eliminate the low end torque hit that tends to tear those up.

    If you want to get "exotic" I've heard a lot of chatter about people sticking 90's and early 2000's Exploder 8.8's underneath also. From what I gather it's the same width as the 68-70 B-body Mopar. They can come with disc brakes, which would then turn into a new master cylinder and proportioning valve job too. Depending on your driving habits that's probably worth the effort. They also need the special Ford rear U-joint yoke. It's a little more effort as described, in that you'd need a pair of axle perch pads from Speedway and an angle finder to figure out exactly where to tack them on before removing to measure exact alignment and weld solid. Never heard anybody complain after having put one in though so they must work good.

    The less common swap I've heard of is another 8.25, from a Jeep Liberty. No idea on years but the newer Mopar axles are (I think it is) 35 spline instead of the older 29 spline like those from the 60's all through our era of manufacture. That would still require all the mounting work as for the 8.8 unit.

    Hope that helps...
    Volare Magnet

  6. #46
    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    And, just in case you didn't find it...

    https://www.aspenandvolare.com/showt...potter-s-Guide

    I'm not sure any more, but it may very well have been Rattletrap's advice I was working from when I swapped mine.

    It seemed like a pretty big job before I got into it, but with help from this gang it wasn't bad at all. The worst was how heavy the 8 3/4 is without anyone to help me move it around.

  7. #47
    Aspen and Volare Member Jansen5's Avatar
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    Are you like the engineer that designed the f body platform, I swear you always have answers to my questions @rattle trap

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    doublechaz (11-03-2021)

  9. #48
    Aspen and Volare Rattle Trap's Avatar
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    I just pay attention when others speak and pass it along with more words. Lol!
    Volare Magnet

  10. #49
    Aspen and Volare Super Member doublechaz's Avatar
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    Some peoples' mind work that way. There are the ones that can tell you how many first inning runs Babe Ruth had in the 27 season, and there are the ones that can tell you all the models and years that use a 10 inch drum rear brake in the Mopar line.

    My poison used to be 7400 series chip numbers.

  11. #50
    Aspen and Volare Super Moderator aspen79's Avatar
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    I knew a guy many years ago, who was a walking parts catalog. He could tell you what p/n manifold a '70 340 'Cuda has, or the casting number AND part number for the exhaust manifold, for example. No idea how he did it. If it was a Mopar built between the late '60's and the early '70's, he seemed to always know exactly what version of a part and p/n a particular car, with the equipment options it had took, and if there was more than one p/n used, depending on other options, he knew that also. It was amazing. If you actually looked up the p/n, just to see if he was bullsh**ing or not, you'd find what he told you was correct.
    1979 Aspen Sunrise 500". Owned since 1987, big block since 1989
    1996 Dakota Sport owned since 1998, 3.9L. Winter DD
    2008 Ford Mustang V6, bought 2017, summer only DD
    Let's go Brandon!

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